In this article
1What is argan oil? 2How much argan oil does your skin need? 3What does argan oil do for your skin? 4Argan oil usage guide 5What active ingredients are compatible with argan oil? 6Common mistakes when using argan oil 7How long does argan oil take to work? 8Frequently asked questions about argan oil 9Sources and referencesArgan oil (Argania spinosa kernel oil) is a vegetable oil rich in unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E that acts as an emollient, antioxidant, and skin barrier repairer. It works well on almost any skin type when used in the right amount and at the correct time in your routine. Its main strength is not hydration itself, but rather its ability to retain water already in the skin and protect it from daily oxidative damage.
What is argan oil?
Argan oil is extracted from the seeds of the fruit of the Argania spinosa tree, a species endemic to southwestern Morocco and parts of Algeria. The tree grows in extreme climatic conditions — arid soils, high solar radiation, and widely fluctuating temperatures between day and night — and this, far from being an anecdotal detail, has a direct implication on the oil's composition: the plant develops a high concentration of protective compounds to survive, and these same compounds are what ultimately benefit human skin.
Chemical composition: what's inside the oil
The lipid profile of argan oil is what distinguishes it from other vegetable oils used in cosmetics. Approximately 80% of its content consists of unsaturated fatty acids, with oleic acid (omega-9) accounting for 43 to 49% of the total, and linoleic acid (omega-6) between 29 and 36%. This proportion gives it a dual capability: oleic acid penetrates the upper layers of the stratum corneum with relative ease, while linoleic acid strengthens the ceramides that form the skin barrier and has documented anti-inflammatory properties.
In addition to fatty acids, argan oil contains tocopherols (vitamin E in its alpha, gamma, and delta forms), squalene, plant sterols (especially spinasterol and schottenol, which are exclusive to this species), and polyphenols with antioxidant activity. The amount of vitamin E per 100g of oil is notably higher than that of olive oil, which reinforces its antioxidant profile.
Cosmetic oil versus culinary oil: they are not the same
There is an important difference that many people overlook. Cosmetic argan oil is obtained by cold pressing unroasted seeds, which preserves its pale golden color, mild scent, and skin properties. Culinary argan oil, on the other hand, is obtained from previously roasted seeds, has a darker color and an intense nutty aroma, and although it is nutritious for consumption, it is not formulated for topical application. If you see argan oil at a very low price in a health food store or grocery store, it is likely the culinary version or the extraction quality has not preserved the active cosmetic ingredients.
The role of INCI and what to look for on the label
In INCI nomenclature, argan oil appears as Argania spinosa kernel oil. When reading a product's ingredient list, keep in mind that the higher it appears on the list, the greater its concentration. If it appears at the end, after preservatives, the amount present is anecdotal and its functional contribution questionable. For argan oil to act significantly as an emollient or barrier repairer, it needs to be among the first ingredients or, if it is a pure oil, be the sole or practically sole component of the product.
How much argan oil does your skin need?
Argan oil is not an active ingredient with a minimum effective dose established by clinical studies, as is the case with retinol or niacinamide. As an emollient and partial occlusive ingredient, its efficacy depends less on an exact concentration and more on the amount applied in relation to the skin's needs and the timing in the routine.
In formulated products: where it appears and what it means
In serums, creams, and treatments that include argan oil as an ingredient among others, the useful concentration usually ranges from 5% to 30% of the total formula. Below 5%, the oil may provide some textural sensation, but its functional impact on the skin barrier is limited. In the best formulated facial oils, it is a main ingredient, representing between 50% and 100% of the product.
Pure oil: how many drops to use on the face
If you use pure argan oil as an independent step in your routine, the recommended amount for the face is 3 to 5 drops for dry or normal skin, and 2 to 3 drops for combination or oily skin. More quantity does not translate into more benefit: excess does not penetrate, remains on the surface, and can clog hair follicles or create an uncomfortable sticky sensation. The key is to apply it to slightly damp skin to enhance its occlusive effect on previous hydration.
Scalp and hair: different amounts
For hair use, quantities vary significantly. As a hair repair treatment (on ends or as a mask), 5 to 10 drops can be used depending on hair length and thickness. For the scalp, it is preferable to apply it in moderation and only when there is flaking or dryness, as it can worsen the situation on oily scalps.
What does argan oil do for your skin?
To understand what argan oil can and cannot do, it's helpful to separate its documented real effects from the marketing narrative that has surrounded it since it became popular in the West in the early 2000s. It's not a miracle active, but it does have well-supported functions.
Repair and reinforcement of the skin barrier
This is probably the most relevant function of argan oil from a dermatological point of view. The skin barrier depends on a precise mixture of intercellular lipids, among which ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids stand out. The linoleic acid contained in argan oil is a direct precursor to ceramides and, when applied topically, helps restore the lipid architecture of the stratum corneum. This results in skin with less transepidermal water loss (TEWL), more resistant to environmental irritants, and with a smoother, more comfortable appearance.
Emollient function: why skin feels softer
Oils like argan oil act as emollients, meaning they fill the spaces between the cells of the stratum corneum and smooth the skin's surface. The result is skin with a better feel, less tightness, and a more uniform appearance. This action does not modify the deep structure of the skin or stimulate cellular processes; it is a functional improvement of the surface that occurs immediately after application. This effect should not be underestimated: a properly occluded barrier is a barrier that regenerates better.
Antioxidant action against oxidative stress
The tocopherols (vitamin E) and polyphenols in argan oil neutralize free radicals generated by exposure to UV radiation, pollution, and other environmental factors. Oxidative stress is one of the main mechanisms of skin aging and dermal collagen degradation. Argan oil does not replace sun protection, but applied in a daily routine, it can act as an additional layer of antioxidant defense. Several in vitro studies have confirmed the antioxidant activity of its components, although in vivo studies on human skin are more limited.
Effect on wrinkles and elasticity
A study published in Clinical Interventions in Aging in 2015 evaluated the effect of argan oil on skin elasticity in postmenopausal women. After 60 days of use, participants showed a statistically significant improvement in skin elasticity compared to the control group. Researchers attributed the effect to both the emollient action of the oil and its ability to modulate skin activity through its bioactive components. This is a promising result, but it needs to be contextualized: the participants' profile was specific, and changes in skin elasticity are multi-causal.
Anti-inflammatory and soothing properties
Oleic acid and linoleic acid have documented anti-inflammatory properties. For reactive skin, with mild rosacea or atopic dermatitis, argan oil can help reduce redness and the sensation of irritation thanks to this activity. It is not a medical treatment for these conditions, but as a complement to a skincare routine, it can contribute to keeping the skin calmer and more comfortable.
Hair use: repair and shine
Argan oil has a history of hair use that even precedes its facial cosmetic popularization. Its ability to partially penetrate damaged hair structure, smooth the cuticle, and add shine makes it an all-round active ingredient in hair care. It works especially well on dry, colored, or heat-damaged hair, where the cuticle is lifted and the hair fiber easily loses water.
Argan oil usage guide
Argan oil is, in general, a permissive ingredient in terms of use. But there are routine decisions that make the difference between harnessing its properties well and getting a mediocre or even counterproductive result.
When to apply it in your routine
Facial oils should always be applied at the end of your skincare routine, over water-based products (moisturizer, serum, toner). The reason is physicochemical: oils form a partial occlusive barrier that hinders the absorption of hydrophilic ingredients if applied beforehand. If you use vitamin C serum, hyaluronic acid, or niacinamide, apply them first, let them absorb, and then seal with argan oil. This sequence optimizes the effect of all active ingredients and allows the oil to effectively fulfill its occlusive function.
Nighttime is when the use of argan oil is most strategic. During sleep, the skin enters repair mode and transepidermal water loss increases. Applying the oil as the last step of your nighttime routine helps reduce this loss and enhances the natural skin regeneration processes.
How to apply it correctly on the face
Correct application does not involve rubbing the oil vigorously onto dry skin. Ideally, warm the drops between your palms and gently press them onto your face with open palms, working from the center outwards. This method distributes the oil evenly without dragging previously applied products. If there are areas where you feel the oil "slips" without adhering, it's a sign that there's too much or that the humectant base hasn't fully absorbed.
Use around the eyes
Argan oil can be applied very carefully around the eyes, an area where the skin is particularly thin and prone to dryness. A minimal amount is sufficient (literally the residue left on your fingertips after distributing the oil over the rest of your face) applied with a gentle touch. It is not recommended to apply it directly to the mobile eyelid or the tear duct line.
Hair use: different methods depending on the objective
As a pre-wash treatment, the oil can be applied to dry or slightly damp hair, left on for 30 minutes to several hours, and then washed as usual. This technique, known as pre-poo or pre-wash, protects the hair fiber from osmotic swelling that occurs when wet and reduces mechanical damage from washing.
As a finishing treatment, 1 to 3 drops are applied to already dry or semi-dry hair to add shine, reduce frizz, and smooth the cuticle. In this case, the amount is critical: excess will make the hair greasy and look weighed down.
What active ingredients are compatible with argan oil?
Argan oil is, in terms of compatibility, one of the least problematic ingredients in a skincare routine. As a vegetable oil with no active pH or mechanisms of action that interfere with other active ingredients, it rarely causes direct chemical incompatibilities. However, some combinations enhance each other, and others require care in the order of application.
Combinations that work well
With vitamin C (ascorbic acid or its derivatives), argan oil is a natural ally. The tocopherols in the oil act synergistically with vitamin C: vitamin E regenerates oxidized vitamin C in the skin, extending its lifespan and enhancing overall antioxidant activity. This combination has scientific support and is common in high-end cosmetic formulations. The order of application is key: vitamin C serum first, then argan oil.
With hyaluronic acid, argan oil acts as a sealant that retains the hydration that hyaluronic acid has provided to the superficial layers of the skin. Hyaluronic acid attracts water, the oil keeps it in. It is one of the most effective combinations for dry or dehydrated skin, especially in dry climates or cold seasons.
With retinol or retinoids, argan oil can help mitigate the initial irritation these active ingredients cause, especially during adaptation phases. It is always applied after the retinoid, as the last step of the nighttime routine, and acts as a barrier that reduces the sensation of dryness and flaking. Note: it does not eliminate the effects of the retinoid, it only helps to tolerate them better.
With niacinamide, the combination is perfectly compatible. Niacinamide acts in the most superficial layers of the skin, regulating sebum production and strengthening the barrier; argan oil complements this reinforcement from the outside. For oily skin, this combination can balance the skin's condition without overburdening it if the correct amounts of oil are used.
Combinations that require care
With exfoliating acids (AHA, BHA), argan oil does not create chemical incompatibility, but the order matters. If you apply an acid after the oil, it acts as a physical barrier that reduces the acid's penetration and therefore its exfoliating efficacy. Always apply the acid to clean skin or after water-based products, and reserve the oil for the end. If you use acids at night, the oil can be the last step without problem.
With other vegetable oils or oil blends, argan oil can be combined without issue. In fact, many facial oils on the market are blends of several vegetable oils designed to complement lipid profiles. If you use several oils, mix them in your palm and apply them together instead of in separate layers.
Common mistakes when using argan oil
Argan oil is an easy ingredient to incorporate into your routine, but there are usage mistakes that limit its results or, in some cases, can cause skin problems. These are the most common.
Applying it to completely dry skin
This is probably the most common mistake. Oils do not hydrate on their own — they do not provide water to the skin. What they do is create a barrier that reduces the loss of water already present in the skin. If you apply argan oil to completely dry skin without a prior moisturizer, the result will be skin that feels greasy but has not gained real hydration. The correct sequence is: cleanse, apply water-based products (toner, serum, cream), and seal with the oil.
Using excessive amounts
More oil does not equal more benefit. Excess argan oil on the skin is not absorbed and remains on the surface, creating a greasy feeling, clogging pores in prone skin, and potentially causing blackheads or small pimples. The correct amount is the minimum necessary to uniformly cover the entire surface of the face: between 2 and 5 drops.
Applying it before water-based active ingredients
If you apply argan oil before your serum or moisturizer, you will be creating a lipid barrier that prevents subsequent hydrophilic active ingredients from penetrating correctly. The result is that the hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, or vitamin C serum you apply afterwards barely reaches the skin. Oil always goes last.
Expecting it to replace moisturizer
Argan oil is an emollient and partial occlusive, but it is not a complete moisturizer. Modern moisturizers combine humectants (which attract water), emollients (which soften), and occlusives (which seal). The oil only fulfills the latter two functions. Very dry or dehydrated skin needs active humectants like hyaluronic acid or urea before the oil, not instead of it.
Not checking the oil quality
Not all argan oils on the market are equivalent. The extraction process, storage, and purity of the product directly affect its efficacy and skin tolerance. Rancid argan oil (which smells intensely of old vegetable oil, not the soft, almost neutral aroma characteristic of quality cosmetic oil) can cause irritation and even inflammatory reactions. Store the oil in a cool, dark place, and always check the expiration date.
Using it as the sole treatment for acne
Although the linoleic acid in argan oil has properties that can be beneficial for acne-prone skin (acne-prone skin often has a reduced proportion of linoleic acid in its sebum), argan oil is not a treatment for acne. Excessive use on very prone skin can worsen breakouts. In these cases, very moderate use is preferable, or consult a dermatologist before incorporating it into your routine.
How long does argan oil take to work?
Realistic expectations about response times are crucial to avoid abandoning an ingredient before it has had a chance to prove its effectiveness, or to avoid persisting with something that isn't working.
Immediate effects: from the first application
The emollient action of argan oil is practically immediate. From the first or second application, most people notice an improvement in skin softness, a reduction in tightness, and a brighter appearance. These effects are real but superficial: they correspond to the filling of intercellular spaces on the surface of the stratum corneum and the partial occlusion of the barrier. They are not an indicator of structural changes in the skin.
Medium-term effects: between 2 and 6 weeks
With continuous use for 2 to 6 weeks, effects on the skin barrier begin to become evident. The skin may experience fewer episodes of sensitivity or reactivity, more stable hydration throughout the day, and a more uniform texture. These changes reflect a functional improvement in barrier integrity. They are more evident in dry skin or skin with a compromised barrier than in skin that already has optimal skin health.
Long-term effects: after 2-3 months
Changes in elasticity and the appearance of fine lines require more time and consistent use. The previously mentioned study on skin elasticity in postmenopausal women used a 60-day evaluation period. After 2 or 3 months of regular use, a more noticeable difference in skin firmness and a reduction in the appearance of fine lines related to dehydration can be observed. It should be clarified that argan oil does not eliminate expression wrinkles or affect dermal volume as other more specific active ingredients might.
Factors influencing results
Skin type, the initial state of the skin barrier, the quality of the oil used, consistency of use, and the rest of the routine are variables that directly affect the results. Very dry skin with a compromised barrier will notice changes more quickly than normal skin in good condition. A person who uses the oil irregularly or in insufficient quantities will take longer to perceive benefits. And someone who combines argan oil with a complete routine that includes sun protection, antioxidant active ingredients, and good hydration will achieve much better results than someone who uses it in isolation.
Frequently asked questions about argan oil
Is argan oil comedogenic? Can it clog pores?+
Argan oil has a low comedogenicity rating, generally valued at 0 or 1 on a scale of 5. This means it has a low probability of clogging pores in most people. However, the comedogenicity index is a general guide and not a universal guarantee: some people with very comedone-prone skin may react to it. If you have acne-prone or very oily skin, start with very small amounts and observe how your skin responds during the first few weeks before incorporating it regularly.
Can I use argan oil if I have oily skin?+
Yes, with nuances. Argan oil has a relatively light feel compared to other heavier vegetable oils like avocado or coconut, and its fatty acid profile can help regulate sebum production when used in small amounts. The key for oily skin is the quantity: 1 to 2 drops are sufficient, applied at night as the last step. If your skin produces a lot of sebum or you have frequent active acne, prioritize other more specific active ingredients and consult if argan oil is suitable for your specific case.
Does argan oil work for stretch marks?+
Argan oil is frequently used as a preventive treatment for stretch marks, especially during pregnancy or periods of rapid growth. Direct scientific evidence of its ability to prevent stretch mark formation is limited, but its effect on skin elasticity and hydration supports its use as a preventive measure. Once a stretch mark is already formed — especially mature, pearly white stretch marks —, no vegetable oil can eliminate it, because it is a dermal scar that affects deeper layers than the oil can reach topically.
How long does argan oil last once opened?+
Argan oil has a reasonably good shelf life for a vegetable oil: once opened, it can remain in good condition for 12 to 24 months if stored correctly. To preserve its properties, store it in a cool place away from direct sunlight. Dark glass containers are preferable to clear plastic ones. When the oil starts to go rancid, its smell changes from a soft, slightly nutty aroma to a rancid and unpleasant odor. At that point, it is best to discard it, as rancid oil can irritate the skin and its antioxidant activity will have degraded significantly.
Is there any difference between argan oil and rosehip oil for the face?+
These are oils with different profiles and they complement each other more than they substitute each other. Rosehip oil is richer in linoleic acid (omega-6) and linolenic acid (omega-3), and contains trans-retinoic acid (natural vitamin A), which makes it more specific for spots, scars, and skin tone uniformity. Argan oil has greater oxidative stability thanks to its vitamin E content, and is more suitable as a general emollient and for barrier effect. In a complete routine, both can coexist or be alternated according to the skin's needs in each season.
Can argan oil be used around the eyes?+
Yes, with caution. The skin around the eyes is the thinnest on the face and especially susceptible to dehydration and fine lines. Argan oil can be applied to this area with a minimal amount — the residue left on the fingertips after distributing the oil over the rest of the face is usually sufficient — and with a gentle touch, without pulling the skin. Avoid direct contact with the eyes and do not apply it to the mobile eyelid if you are prone to milia (small white cysts) in this area.
Is argan oil suitable for sensitive or reactive skin?+
Generally, yes. Allergies to argan oil are uncommon, and irritative reactions are rare when a quality oil is used in appropriate amounts. However, for very reactive skin or active contact dermatitis, it is always advisable to perform a patch test in the crook of the elbow for 24 to 48 hours before applying it to the face. People with a confirmed tree nut allergy should consult their doctor or allergist before using this oil, as while cross-reactions are infrequent, they are not completely ruled out.
Sources and References
Boucetta, K. Q., Charrouf, Z., Aguenaou, H., Derouiche, A., & Bensouda, Y. (2015). The effect of dietary and/or cosmetic argan oil on postmenopausal skin elasticity. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 10, 339–349. https://doi.org/10.2147/CIA.S71684
Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.153450
Charrouf, Z., & Guillaume, D. (2008). Argan oil: Occurrence, composition and impact on human health. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology, 110(7), 632–636. https://doi.org/10.1002/ejlt.200700220
Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19010070
