Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Retinol: what it is, what it does and how to use it
anti-wrinkle
Retinol: what it is, what it does and how to use it
Retinol is one of the anti-aging active ingredients with the most scientific evidence. I'll explain what it really do...
Published: 03 June 2026
Niacinamide (vitamin B3): real benefits and how to use it correctly
antioxidant
Niacinamide (vitamin B3): real benefits and how to use it correctly
Niacinamide helps strengthen the barrier, regulate sebum, soothe redness, and even out skin tone. I'll tell you what ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Topical Vitamin C: concentration, use, and suitable skin types
anti-wrinkle
Topical Vitamin C: concentration, use, and suitable skin types
Antioxidant, brightening, and effective against fine spots: this is how topical vitamin C works when the formula is w...
Published: 03 June 2026
Glycolic acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it without irritating your skin
anti-wrinkle
Glycolic acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it without irritating your skin
Glycolic acid is an exfoliating alpha hydroxy acid that helps improve radiance, texture, surface imperfections, and t...
Published: 03 June 2026
Azelaic acid in cosmetics: for spots, redness, acne
acne
Azelaic acid in cosmetics: for spots, redness, acne
Azelaic acid is a very interesting dermo-cosmetic active ingredient for skin with hyperpigmentation, acne-prone skin,...
Published: 03 June 2026
Tranexamic acid: what it does for your skin and when it makes sense to use it
brightening
Tranexamic acid: what it does for your skin and when it makes sense to use it
A clear guide to tranexamic acid: what it really does, what skin types it's good for, how to use it, and what active ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Lactic acid: when is it worth it in your routine
brightening
Lactic acid: when is it worth it in your routine
An AHA with a dual profile: it renews the skin's surface and, when well-formulated, also helps maintain hydration.
Published: 03 June 2026
Arbutin in cosmetics: everything you need to know
brightening
Arbutin in cosmetics: everything you need to know
Arbutin is a depigmenting active ingredient useful for spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. I'll explain wh...
Published: 03 June 2026
Resveratrol: the cosmetic antioxidant that helps combat oxidative stress
antioxidant
Resveratrol: the cosmetic antioxidant that helps combat oxidative stress
Resveratrol is an interesting antioxidant in cosmetics due to its support against oxidative stress, dull skin tone, a...
Published: 03 June 2026
Kojic Acid in Cosmetics: Everything You Need to Know
antioxidant
Kojic Acid in Cosmetics: Everything You Need to Know
Kojic acid is a depigmenting agent useful for blemishes and dull skin tone. I'll explain what the evidence says, at w...
Published: 03 June 2026
Ferulic Acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it
antioxidant
Ferulic Acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it
Ferulic acid is an antioxidant that helps protect the skin from oxidative damage, enhances other active ingredients, ...
Published: 03 June 2026
What is azeloglycine and how can it help your skin
brightening
What is azeloglycine and how can it help your skin
Azeloglycine is a gentler, well-tolerated derivative of azelaic acid. I'll tell you what it's used for, what to combi...
Published: 03 June 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics