Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Hotflux TM in cosmetics: localized heat, when it fits and when it doesn't
anti-inflammatory
Hotflux TM in cosmetics: localized heat, when it fits and when it doesn't
A warming ingredient that might make sense in body formulas, but it's not for every skin type or every area.
Published: 25 May 2026
Quina extract: when it's suitable for oily skin
acne
Quina extract: when it's suitable for oily skin
A botanical extract with a sebum-regulating profile that can be effective in formulas for combination or oily skin, w...
Published: 25 May 2026
Bamboo Stem Powder: when it fits into a facial exfoliation
exfoliant
Bamboo Stem Powder: when it fits into a facial exfoliation
Plant-based particles for mechanical exfoliation: I'll explain when they can make sense and when I prefer other options.
Published: 25 May 2026
Ginseng extract: when it adds value to your routine
antioxidant
Ginseng extract: when it adds value to your routine
An interesting botanical active when seeking antioxidant support and a revitalizing effect, but it's important to adj...
Published: 25 May 2026
Fucus extract: when it makes sense in cosmetics
antioxidant
Fucus extract: when it makes sense in cosmetics
An interesting marine active ingredient for its moisturizing and antioxidant profile, although its more ambitious eff...
Published: 25 May 2026
Topical vitamin B2: when it benefits the skin
anti-inflammatory
Topical vitamin B2: when it benefits the skin
Riboflavin in cosmetics: what role it plays, when it fits into a formula, and what realistic results can be expected ...
Published: 25 May 2026
Apricot seed in cosmetics: physical exfoliant
emollient
Apricot seed in cosmetics: physical exfoliant
A classic physical exfoliant that can smooth texture but doesn't suit all skin types or routines.
Published: 20 May 2026
Vitamin K in cosmetics: when it makes sense and when it doesn't
renewing
Vitamin K in cosmetics: when it makes sense and when it doesn't
It is not one of the most well-known assets, but in certain contexts, it can make sense. I'll explain where it fits i...
Published: 20 May 2026
Elastin in cosmetics: what it can really do for your skin
anti-wrinkle
Elastin in cosmetics: what it can really do for your skin
Topical elastin is primarily used as a conditioning and moisturizing ingredient. I'll explain what results are realis...
Published: 20 May 2026
Apple Stem Cells: Real Benefits and How to Use Them Properly
anti-inflammatory
Apple Stem Cells: Real Benefits and How to Use Them Properly
Apple stem cells in cosmetics do not regenerate your skin like a living cell, but they can help protect it from oxida...
Published: 13 May 2026
Glycerin: What it's for and how to use it on your skin
hydrating
Glycerin: What it's for and how to use it on your skin
Glycerin is one of the most effective and best-tolerated humectants. I'll explain what it's used for, how to use it, ...
Published: 12 May 2026
Hydrolyzed collagen: what it does for your skin and how to get the most out of it
hair-repair
Hydrolyzed collagen: what it does for your skin and how to get the most out of it
I'll explain what hydrolyzed collagen can and cannot do in cosmetics, for which skin types it makes sense, and how to...
Published: 12 May 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics