Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Enoxolone: What is it used for in the skin? A Pharmaceutical Guide
anti-inflammatory
Enoxolone: What is it used for in the skin? A Pharmaceutical Guide
Enoxolone is a soothing and anti-inflammatory active ingredient derived from licorice, useful for sensitive, reddened...
Published: 03 June 2026
What is babassu oil and how can it help your skin
emollient
What is babassu oil and how can it help your skin
Babassu oil is a lightweight, plant-derived emollient that helps soften the skin, reinforce the skin barrier, and pro...
Published: 03 June 2026
Elastin in cosmetics: what it can really do for your skin
anti-wrinkle
Elastin in cosmetics: what it can really do for your skin
Topical elastin is primarily used as a conditioning and moisturizing ingredient. I'll explain what results are realis...
Published: 03 June 2026
Topical vitamin B2: when it benefits the skin
anti-inflammatory
Topical vitamin B2: when it benefits the skin
Riboflavin in cosmetics: what role it plays, when it fits into a formula, and what realistic results can be expected ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Fucus extract: when it makes sense in cosmetics
antioxidant
Fucus extract: when it makes sense in cosmetics
An interesting marine active ingredient for its moisturizing and antioxidant profile, although its more ambitious eff...
Published: 03 June 2026
Apricot seed in cosmetics: physical exfoliant
emollient
Apricot seed in cosmetics: physical exfoliant
A classic physical exfoliant that can smooth texture but doesn't suit all skin types or routines.
Published: 03 June 2026
Quina extract: when it's suitable for oily skin
acne
Quina extract: when it's suitable for oily skin
A botanical extract with a sebum-regulating profile that can be effective in formulas for combination or oily skin, w...
Published: 03 June 2026
Bamboo Stem Powder: when it fits into a facial exfoliation
exfoliant
Bamboo Stem Powder: when it fits into a facial exfoliation
Plant-based particles for mechanical exfoliation: I'll explain when they can make sense and when I prefer other options.
Published: 03 June 2026
Hotflux TM in cosmetics: localized heat, when it fits and when it doesn't
anti-inflammatory
Hotflux TM in cosmetics: localized heat, when it fits and when it doesn't
A warming ingredient that might make sense in body formulas, but it's not for every skin type or every area.
Published: 03 June 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics