Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Laminaria extract: when it truly fits into a soothing routine
antioxidant
Laminaria extract: when it truly fits into a soothing routine
An interesting marine active for sensitive, dehydrated or altered skin, with more soothing than spectacular benefits.
Published: 25 May 2026
Ruscus extract: when does it make sense for skin with redness
anti-inflammatory
Ruscus extract: when does it make sense for skin with redness
An interesting botanical extract for soothing and comforting formulas, although its real role depends heavily on the ...
Published: 25 May 2026
Ivy extract in cosmetics: when it can be beneficial
anti-inflammatory
Ivy extract in cosmetics: when it can be beneficial
It's not one of the most decisive botanical extracts, but it can fit into soothing and antioxidant formulas with real...
Published: 25 May 2026
Topical Probiotics: When They Make Sense in Your Routine
anti-inflammatory
Topical Probiotics: When They Make Sense in Your Routine
They don't do the same thing as an oral probiotic, but they can help soothe and strengthen the barrier in certain ski...
Published: 25 May 2026
Green tea extract: useful antioxidant or cosmetic claim
anti-inflammatory
Green tea extract: useful antioxidant or cosmetic claim
An interesting antioxidant active ingredient, especially in soothing and urban formulas, but with more modest results...
Published: 25 May 2026
Oat extract on sensitive skin: when it truly brings calm
antioxidant
Oat extract on sensitive skin: when it truly brings calm
A useful aid for sensitive, dry or reactive skin when the formula is well-planned and not expected to deliver more re...
Published: 25 May 2026
Mango Butter: When it provides comfort and when it falls short
emollient
Mango Butter: When it provides comfort and when it falls short
A very pleasant vegetable butter for dry or sensitized skin, but with important nuances if you're looking to treat ac...
Published: 25 May 2026
Ginkgo biloba extract: when it makes sense in cosmetics
antioxidant
Ginkgo biloba extract: when it makes sense in cosmetics
An interesting botanical active for its antioxidant and soothing profile, although one should not expect major change...
Published: 25 May 2026
Kaolin for oily skin: when it fits and how to use it
exfoliant
Kaolin for oily skin: when it fits and how to use it
A classic clay for oily or combination skin: useful for absorbing sebum and decongesting, with realistic and no-exagg...
Published: 20 May 2026
Cucumber extract: when it provides comfort to the skin
antioxidant
Cucumber extract: when it provides comfort to the skin
A gentle botanical active that can provide freshness and comfort, but it's important to understand what it truly does...
Published: 20 May 2026
Chamomile extract in cosmetics: when it's worth it
anti-inflammatory
Chamomile extract in cosmetics: when it's worth it
A classic botanical ingredient that can help calm skin, but it's important to understand what it does and doesn't do.
Published: 20 May 2026
Menthol in cosmetics: freshness, relief, and its limitations
anti-inflammatory
Menthol in cosmetics: freshness, relief, and its limitations
Menthol provides an immediate cooling and relieving sensation, but it's not always suitable for sensitive or reactive...
Published: 20 May 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics