Menthol in cosmetics: freshness, relief, and its limitations

What is menthol and where does it come from?

Menthol is an aromatic compound naturally present in mint, especially in the oil of Mentha arvensis or Mentha piperita. In cosmetics, it is used for its ability to generate an intense cooling sensation on the skin and, in some products, also on the scalp or lips.

My nuance as a pharmacist is important here: this cooling effect does not mean that the skin is repairing itself or that the skin temperature actually drops significantly. What it does is activate sensory receptors, especially the TRPM8 receptor, which our nervous system interprets as cold.

What is menthol used for on the skin?

Menthol is mainly used to provide rapid sensory relief. That's why it appears in tired leg gels, massage balms, post-exercise products, foot formulas, or cosmetics seeking a very evident refreshing experience.

Subjective relief and soothing effect

In some contexts, it can help an area feel less heavy or less uncomfortable. This relief is real as a sensation, although it doesn't always imply a fundamental improvement of the skin problem.

Rubefacient effect

Depending on the concentration and formula, it can also produce slight superficial vasodilation or redness. That's why it is described as rubefacient. This effect may be sought in body cosmetics, but it is usually not the most desirable on the face, especially when skin already tends to redness.

How to use menthol without irritating the skin

With menthol, less is often more. It works better in localized or body products than in daily facial routines for sensitive skin. If you are going to try it, my advice is to start with a small amount and observe how your skin responds over several days.

After removing the cleanser, before the moisturizer, it is not usually the usual step in a facial serum. It is more common to find it in gels, balms, massage lotions, leg products, or after-sun formulas. If you notice persistent stinging, itching, or redness that does not subside, it is not worth insisting.

Compatibility on real skin

Menthol can coexist with emollients and soothing agents that buffer its sensory profile, such as glycerin, panthenol, or allantoin. The response changes with the rest of the formula: an alcoholic gel with menthol is not the same as a well-formulated cream with a low dose.

However, combining it with intense exfoliants, potent retinoids, or highly fragranced formulas can increase the risk of irritation, especially on reactive skin.

When menthol is not the answer

When a patient presents with rosacea, dermatitis, a compromised barrier, eczema, or a marked tendency to stinging, menthol is generally not the best choice. I also don't think it's a great idea around the eyes or on broken or freshly exfoliated skin.

Don't expect groundbreaking results for blemishes, wrinkles, acne, or hydration. Menthol fulfills a specific sensory function but does not replace active treatment ingredients.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding

In normal cosmetic use and at reasonable concentrations, topical menthol is generally considered compatible, provided the skin tolerates it well and it is not applied to large irritated or damaged areas. Even so, if you are pregnant and using a very intense body product or one with other associated active ingredients, I recommend reviewing the complete formula.

Frequently asked questions

Sources and references

1. Eccles R. 1994. Menthol and related cooling compounds. Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.2042-7158.1994.tb03871.x
2. Patel T, Ishiuji Y, Yosipovitch G. 2007. Menthol: a refreshing look at this ancient compound. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2007.04.008
3. Liu B, Fan L, Balakrishna S, Sui A, Morris JB, Jordt SE. 2013. TRPM8 is the principal mediator of menthol-induced analgesia of acute and inflammatory pain. Pain. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pain.2013.04.043