Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Citric acid in cosmetics: what it is and its effect on the skin
antioxidant
Citric acid in cosmetics: what it is and its effect on the skin
I'll explain what citric acid is in cosmetics, what it's really used for, how to use it without irritating the skin, ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Ferulic Acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it
antioxidant
Ferulic Acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it
Ferulic acid is an antioxidant that helps protect the skin from oxidative damage, enhances other active ingredients, ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Chamomile extract in cosmetics: when it's worth it
anti-inflammatory
Chamomile extract in cosmetics: when it's worth it
A classic botanical ingredient that can help calm skin, but it's important to understand what it does and doesn't do.
Published: 03 June 2026
Gluconolactone in cosmetics: gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin
antioxidant
Gluconolactone in cosmetics: gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin
Gluconolactone is a gentle, hydrating, and antioxidant PHA that exfoliates with less irritation than other acids. I'l...
Published: 03 June 2026
Rosemary extract in cosmetics: benefits and ideal applications
antimicrobial
Rosemary extract in cosmetics: benefits and ideal applications
Not all botanicals are soothing. Rosemary extract can provide antioxidant and astringent action, but it's important t...
Published: 03 June 2026
Cucumber extract: when it provides comfort to the skin
antioxidant
Cucumber extract: when it provides comfort to the skin
A gentle botanical active that can provide freshness and comfort, but it's important to understand what it truly does...
Published: 03 June 2026
Carrot Oil: when it makes sense in your routine
antioxidant
Carrot Oil: when it makes sense in your routine
A vegetable oil interesting for its antioxidant and emollient profile, but with important nuances about what it can t...
Published: 03 June 2026
Grapeseed Oil: properties, uses, and for which skin types it works
antioxidant
Grapeseed Oil: properties, uses, and for which skin types it works
Light, emollient, and rich in fatty acids and antioxidant compounds, grapeseed oil can help reinforce the skin barrie...
Published: 03 June 2026
Macadamia Oil: Real Functions and How to Apply It
antioxidant
Macadamia Oil: Real Functions and How to Apply It
Macadamia oil is a natural emollient that helps soften the skin, strengthen the skin barrier, and reduce feelings of ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Sunflower oil in cosmetics: what the evidence says
antioxidant
Sunflower oil in cosmetics: what the evidence says
Pharmaceutical guide to sunflower oil: what it contributes to the skin barrier, which skin types it's best suited for...
Published: 03 June 2026
Ginkgo biloba extract: when it makes sense in cosmetics
antioxidant
Ginkgo biloba extract: when it makes sense in cosmetics
An interesting botanical active for its antioxidant and soothing profile, although one should not expect major change...
Published: 03 June 2026
Wheat germ oil: what it's used for and for which skin types it makes sense
antioxidant
Wheat germ oil: what it's used for and for which skin types it makes sense
Wheat germ oil provides emollients, antioxidants, and skin barrier support. I'll explain what it's for, which skin ty...
Published: 03 June 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics