Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Beta-Glucans: When They Make Sense in a Sensitive Routine
barrier
Beta-Glucans: When They Make Sense in a Sensitive Routine
They're not the most striking ingredient, but they can be a great fit for sensitive, irritated, or irritation-prone s...
Published: 03 June 2026
Topical Probiotics: When They Make Sense in Your Routine
anti-inflammatory
Topical Probiotics: When They Make Sense in Your Routine
They don't do the same thing as an oral probiotic, but they can help soothe and strengthen the barrier in certain ski...
Published: 03 June 2026
Allantoin in cosmetics: when it soothes and when it's barely noticeable
barrier
Allantoin in cosmetics: when it soothes and when it's barely noticeable
A discreet yet useful active ingredient for irritated, sensitive, or compromised skin.
Published: 03 June 2026
Evening primrose oil: when it makes sense for skin and hair
barrier
Evening primrose oil: when it makes sense for skin and hair
It's not an oil for everyone, but it can be suitable for dry, sensitive, or reactive skin and damaged ends.
Published: 03 June 2026
Complete guide to ceramides for facial care
barrier
Complete guide to ceramides for facial care
Ceramides help strengthen the skin barrier, reduce water loss, and soothe the skin. I'll explain how to use them, wha...
Published: 03 June 2026
Arginine: when it makes sense in cosmetics and what you can expect
barrier
Arginine: when it makes sense in cosmetics and what you can expect
An amino acid useful for supporting skin hydration and comfort, with a more discreet role than marketing sometimes su...
Published: 03 June 2026
Dimethicone for the skin: what it is, how it works, and when it's worth it
barrier
Dimethicone for the skin: what it is, how it works, and when it's worth it
Dimethicone is a cosmetic silicone widely used for its emollient and protective effects. I'll explain what it really ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Ruscus extract: when does it make sense for skin with redness
anti-inflammatory
Ruscus extract: when does it make sense for skin with redness
An interesting botanical extract for soothing and comforting formulas, although its real role depends heavily on the ...
Published: 03 June 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics