Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Glycolic acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it without irritating your skin
anti-wrinkle
Glycolic acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it without irritating your skin
Glycolic acid is an exfoliating alpha hydroxy acid that helps improve radiance, texture, surface imperfections, and t...
Published: 03 June 2026
The Truth About Salicylic Acid: What the Science Says
acne
The Truth About Salicylic Acid: What the Science Says
Pharmaceutical guide to salicylic acid: what it really does, what skin types it's suitable for, how to use it without...
Published: 03 June 2026
What does urea do to your skin? I'll tell you.
exfoliant
What does urea do to your skin? I'll tell you.
Urea hydrates, softens flaking, and helps repair the skin barrier. The key is to use the appropriate concentration de...
Published: 03 June 2026
Lactic acid: when is it worth it in your routine
brightening
Lactic acid: when is it worth it in your routine
An AHA with a dual profile: it renews the skin's surface and, when well-formulated, also helps maintain hydration.
Published: 03 June 2026
Kaolin for oily skin: when it fits and how to use it
exfoliant
Kaolin for oily skin: when it fits and how to use it
A classic clay for oily or combination skin: useful for absorbing sebum and decongesting, with realistic and no-exagg...
Published: 03 June 2026
Citric acid in cosmetics: what it is and its effect on the skin
antioxidant
Citric acid in cosmetics: what it is and its effect on the skin
I'll explain what citric acid is in cosmetics, what it's really used for, how to use it without irritating the skin, ...
Published: 03 June 2026
What is azeloglycine and how can it help your skin
brightening
What is azeloglycine and how can it help your skin
Azeloglycine is a gentler, well-tolerated derivative of azelaic acid. I'll tell you what it's used for, what to combi...
Published: 03 June 2026
Gluconolactone in cosmetics: gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin
antioxidant
Gluconolactone in cosmetics: gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin
Gluconolactone is a gentle, hydrating, and antioxidant PHA that exfoliates with less irritation than other acids. I'l...
Published: 03 June 2026
Phytic acid in cosmetics: what it is, what it's for, and what to combine it with
brightening
Phytic acid in cosmetics: what it is, what it's for, and what to combine it with
I'll explain what phytic acid really does for the skin, what to combine it with, what mistakes to avoid, and how to u...
Published: 03 June 2026
What mandelic acid is used for in the skin: a pharmaceutical guide
acne
What mandelic acid is used for in the skin: a pharmaceutical guide
Mandelic acid exfoliates more gently than other AHAs, helps with acne, blemishes, and dull tone, and is usually bette...
Published: 03 June 2026
Apricot seed in cosmetics: physical exfoliant
emollient
Apricot seed in cosmetics: physical exfoliant
A classic physical exfoliant that can smooth texture but doesn't suit all skin types or routines.
Published: 03 June 2026
Bamboo Stem Powder: when it fits into a facial exfoliation
exfoliant
Bamboo Stem Powder: when it fits into a facial exfoliation
Plant-based particles for mechanical exfoliation: I'll explain when they can make sense and when I prefer other options.
Published: 03 June 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics