Licorice Root Extract for Skin: What to Expect and What Not To

Licorice extract appears a lot in cosmetics for sensitive skin, redness, or blemishes, but it is not always well explained what it does and what it doesn't. And here it is necessary to put some order, because under the name of licorice, extracts and molecules with somewhat different profiles are grouped.

When we talk about Glycyrrhiza glabra, we are talking about a plant rich in bioactive compounds. Among the best known are glabridin, liquiritin, and glycyrrhetinic acid, associated in scientific literature with antioxidant, soothing, and depigmenting effects. However, what an isolated molecule can do in the laboratory is one thing, and what we can expect from a real cosmetic with a plant extract is another. My approach here is the usual one: neither demonize nor promise more than what can be delivered.

If your goal is a gentler skin routine, reducing irritation, or complementing a strategy to even out skin tone, licorice extract can make sense. Let's look at it calmly.

What is licorice extract?

Licorice extract is a cosmetic ingredient of plant origin obtained from species of the genus Glycyrrhiza, especially Glycyrrhiza glabra. In cosmetics, it is used for its content of compounds with biological activity, including flavonoids and saponins.

There is an important nuance here: in scientific publications, specific licorice molecules, such as glabridin or glycyrrhetinic acid, are often studied, while in the cosmetic INCI, a broader extract may appear. This means that we cannot always directly transfer all laboratory results to the final product.

The INCI we are concerned with, Glycyrrhiza glabra leaf extract, refers to licorice leaf extract. Root extracts, which are very common, can also be found on the market. Depending on the origin and the extraction method, the compound profile changes, and with it, its activity can also change.

Why is it so interesting in dermocosmetics? Because it brings together several things that are often sought at the same time: good tolerance, a soothing profile, antioxidant support, and potential usefulness in skin prone to blemishes. It is not a spectacular "before and after" ingredient, but it is one of those active ingredients that help make a routine better thought out.

Licorice extract: what is it really for?

Its most realistic use in cosmetics is on three fronts: soothing, protecting against oxidative stress, and helping to improve the appearance of an uneven tone. Do not expect it to erase intense blemishes on its own or replace medical treatment, but it can be a good supportive active ingredient.

1. Helps soothe the skin. Licorice is widely used in formulas for sensitive or reactive skin because some of its compounds have anti-inflammatory activity and can reduce the sensation of discomfort. In practice, this translates into more interesting formulas for skin with redness, stinging, or mild irritation.

2. Provides antioxidant action. Like other botanical extracts rich in polyphenols and flavonoids, it helps combat some of the oxidative damage generated by UV radiation, pollution, and other environmental aggressors. Note: antioxidant does not mean photoprotective. You still need sunscreen every morning.

3. Can support against blemishes and marks. Glabridin is probably the most cited compound when talking about licorice and pigmentation. It has been studied for its ability to inhibit tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin synthesis. This makes licorice of interest in routines for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, dull tone, or mild blemishes. The result, when it occurs, is usually gradual.

4. Can improve the tolerance of intense routines. If you use retinoids, acids, or vitamin C and notice your skin is more reactive, a product with licorice can help make the routine more comfortable, as long as the complete formula is well planned.

In short: yes, it makes cosmetic sense. But it works better as a complementary ingredient within a coherent routine than as the absolute protagonist.

Who should use licorice extract?

It is one of those quite versatile ingredients. I wouldn't say everyone needs it, but it certainly fits particularly well into several skin profiles.

Sensitive or reactive skin. This is probably where it makes the most sense. If your skin reddens easily or tolerates aggressive routines poorly, licorice can be a good ally due to its soothing profile.

Skin with redness. It does not replace a diagnosis if there is rosacea or another pathology, but in cosmetics, it can provide comfort and help reduce the sensation of irritation.

Skin with post-acne marks or uneven tone. Here it can add value, especially combined with niacinamide, azelaic acid, or vitamin C. You won't always see quick changes, but it can be part of a sensible strategy to even out skin tone.

Oily or combination skin. It usually appears in light serums and aqueous formulas, so it doesn't have to feel heavy. If there are also post-inflammatory marks, even better.

Dry skin. It can also benefit, as long as the product also includes humectants and lipids that help repair the barrier. Licorice alone will not solve significant dryness.

Who might not notice it as much? Skin without sensitivity, redness, or tone problems may not see an obvious change. This does not mean that the ingredient is bad, just that it will not always be a priority.

How to apply licorice extract correctly

The good news is that it is usually not a complicated ingredient. It doesn't require a special technique or a strange schedule. What is important is the vehicle it comes in and the goal of your routine.

In which step to use it. You will usually find it in serums, essences, or creams. If it's a serum, apply it after cleansing and before cream. If it's a cream, it would go as a treatment/hydration step.

Frequency. Generally, morning and night. Since it is not a particularly irritating active ingredient, it is usually well tolerated for daily use.

Amount. The usual amount for the format. A few drops if it's a serum or a small amount if it's a cream. More product does not mean more efficacy.

With sunscreen. This is key if you use it for blemishes or uneven tone. Without daily photoprotection, any depigmenting routine is incomplete. Sunscreen is not optional.

What concentration to look for. In plant extracts, the concentration is not always comparable between brands, because it depends on the type of extract and its standardization. That's why with this ingredient, it makes more sense to look at its positioning in the formula, the type of product, and the overall strategy rather than an isolated figure.

If your skin is very reactive, introduce it into a simple routine: gentle cleanser, product with licorice, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Sometimes, fewer steps yield better results.

What active ingredients to combine licorice extract with?

This is where it usually shines most, because it combines well with almost everything that makes sense in a routine for sensitivity or uneven tone.

Niacinamide. A very good pairing. Both help improve the appearance of tone and reinforce a routine aimed at soothing and balancing the skin.

Vitamin C. Good combination if you are looking for antioxidants and luminosity. If your skin is sensitive, licorice sometimes helps make the vitamin C routine more manageable.

Azelaic acid. One of my favorite combinations for skin with redness, post-inflammatory marks, or acne tendency. Azelaic acid works on tone, and licorice provides soothing support.

Hyaluronic acid and ceramides. Perfect if the goal is comfort, hydration, and skin barrier. Licorice doesn't compete with them; it adds to them.

Retinoids. It can also fit. Not because it enhances the retinoid, but because it helps build a more tolerable routine when there is associated irritation or sensitivity.

AHA or BHA. It can be combined, but here I would be more cautious if your skin is sensitive. Not due to chemical incompatibility, but because the overall formula may be too intense.

As for "not combining with," it has no known relevant cosmetic incompatibilities. The problem is usually not licorice, but an excess of irritating active ingredients together on skin that cannot tolerate them.

Common mistakes when using licorice extract

Expecting drastic results on deep blemishes. Licorice can help, yes, but it doesn't usually have the potency of more specific depigmenting actives when we talk about marked melasma or persistent hyperpigmentation. Here, it is advisable to adjust expectations and, if necessary, consult a professional.

Forgetting sunscreen. I repeat this because it is the most common mistake. If your goal is to improve skin tone, you need broad-spectrum SPF every morning and reapplication when appropriate.

Thinking that all licorice extracts are the same. They are not. The activity depends on which part of the plant is used, how it is extracted, whether it is standardized, and what the actual concentration of active compounds in the formula is.

Using it within too aggressive a routine. Sometimes it is included in a routine with powerful exfoliants, retinoids, acidic vitamin C, and very delipidating cleansers, and then the licorice is expected to compensate for everything. It doesn't work that way. It can help, but it doesn't fix a poorly designed routine.

Judging it too soon. If you use it for comfort or redness, it may be noticed sooner. If you use it for uneven tone, the reasonable time frame to assess changes is usually several weeks, not three days.

FAQ: everything you want to know about licorice extract

Here are quick answers to the most common questions.