Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Centella Asiatica for Skin: What Works and What Doesn't
antioxidant
Centella Asiatica for Skin: What Works and What Doesn't
Centella asiatica extract is used for its soothing, antioxidant, and restorative properties. I'll explain what it can...
Published: 03 June 2026
Azelaic acid in cosmetics: for spots, redness, acne
acne
Azelaic acid in cosmetics: for spots, redness, acne
Azelaic acid is a very interesting dermo-cosmetic active ingredient for skin with hyperpigmentation, acne-prone skin,...
Published: 03 June 2026
Tranexamic acid: what it does for your skin and when it makes sense to use it
brightening
Tranexamic acid: what it does for your skin and when it makes sense to use it
A clear guide to tranexamic acid: what it really does, what skin types it's good for, how to use it, and what active ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Snail mucin in your routine: when to use it and when not to
hydrating
Snail mucin in your routine: when to use it and when not to
Snail mucin can help hydrate, soothe, and improve skin recovery. I'll explain what the evidence says, who it makes se...
Published: 03 June 2026
Jojoba oil: what it does for your skin and how to make the most of it
antioxidant
Jojoba oil: what it does for your skin and how to make the most of it
A clear guide to jojoba oil: what it is, what it's for, how to use it, and what results you can expect for dry, sensi...
Published: 03 June 2026
Ketoconazole on the skin: what it's for and when it makes sense
acne
Ketoconazole on the skin: what it's for and when it makes sense
Ketoconazole on the skin: what it's for, how to use it, and what the evidence says about seborrheic dermatitis and fa...
Published: 03 June 2026
Bisabolol: What it is, what it's for, and why your sensitive skin will thank you
antioxidant
Bisabolol: What it is, what it's for, and why your sensitive skin will thank you
Bisabolol is a soothing and anti-inflammatory active ingredient very useful for sensitive, reactive, or irritated ski...
Published: 03 June 2026
Green tea extract: useful antioxidant or cosmetic claim
anti-inflammatory
Green tea extract: useful antioxidant or cosmetic claim
An interesting antioxidant active ingredient, especially in soothing and urban formulas, but with more modest results...
Published: 03 June 2026
Aloe vera: what it does for your skin and how to make the most of it
antioxidant
Aloe vera: what it does for your skin and how to make the most of it
I'll explain what aloe vera actually does for the skin, when it's worth using, what it pairs well with, and what mist...
Published: 03 June 2026
Calendula extract for skin: what to expect and what not to
antioxidant
Calendula extract for skin: what to expect and what not to
Calendula extract is a soothing and antioxidant botanical active, useful for sensitive or irritated skin. I'll explai...
Published: 03 June 2026
Arnica extract in cosmetics: when it makes sense and when it doesn't
anti-inflammatory
Arnica extract in cosmetics: when it makes sense and when it doesn't
Not all soothing agents work for everything. Arnica extract can be a good fit for comforting formulas, but it's impor...
Published: 03 June 2026
Horse chestnut: uses, precautions, and combinations
anti-inflammatory
Horse chestnut: uses, precautions, and combinations
Horse chestnut is primarily used for its calming, antioxidant, and decongestant effects. I'll tell you what the evide...
Published: 03 June 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics