Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Retinol: what it is, what it does and how to use it
anti-wrinkle
Retinol: what it is, what it does and how to use it
Retinol is one of the anti-aging active ingredients with the most scientific evidence. I'll explain what it really do...
Published: 03 June 2026
Hyaluronic acid (high MW): what it is, what it's for, and how to use it in your routine
barrier
Hyaluronic acid (high MW): what it is, what it's for, and how to use it in your routine
High molecular weight hyaluronic acid is a moisturizing active ingredient that primarily acts on the skin's surface, ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Niacinamide (vitamin B3): real benefits and how to use it correctly
antioxidant
Niacinamide (vitamin B3): real benefits and how to use it correctly
Niacinamide helps strengthen the barrier, regulate sebum, soothe redness, and even out skin tone. I'll tell you what ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Topical Vitamin C: concentration, use, and suitable skin types
anti-wrinkle
Topical Vitamin C: concentration, use, and suitable skin types
Antioxidant, brightening, and effective against fine spots: this is how topical vitamin C works when the formula is w...
Published: 03 June 2026
Glycolic acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it without irritating your skin
anti-wrinkle
Glycolic acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it without irritating your skin
Glycolic acid is an exfoliating alpha hydroxy acid that helps improve radiance, texture, surface imperfections, and t...
Published: 03 June 2026
Exosomes in cosmetics: everything you need to know
anti-wrinkle
Exosomes in cosmetics: everything you need to know
We analyze what exosomes are in cosmetics, what evidence they have, how to use them, and what results are realistic t...
Published: 03 June 2026
Centella Asiatica for Skin: What Works and What Doesn't
antioxidant
Centella Asiatica for Skin: What Works and What Doesn't
Centella asiatica extract is used for its soothing, antioxidant, and restorative properties. I'll explain what it can...
Published: 03 June 2026
The Truth About Salicylic Acid: What the Science Says
acne
The Truth About Salicylic Acid: What the Science Says
Pharmaceutical guide to salicylic acid: what it really does, what skin types it's suitable for, how to use it without...
Published: 03 June 2026
Azelaic acid in cosmetics: for spots, redness, acne
acne
Azelaic acid in cosmetics: for spots, redness, acne
Azelaic acid is a very interesting dermo-cosmetic active ingredient for skin with hyperpigmentation, acne-prone skin,...
Published: 03 June 2026
Tranexamic acid: what it does for your skin and when it makes sense to use it
brightening
Tranexamic acid: what it does for your skin and when it makes sense to use it
A clear guide to tranexamic acid: what it really does, what skin types it's good for, how to use it, and what active ...
Published: 03 June 2026
The Complete Guide to Argan Oil for Facial Care
barrier
The Complete Guide to Argan Oil for Facial Care
Argan Oil Pharmaceutical Guide: what it is, what skin type it suits, and the mistakes you should avoid to get the mos...
Published: 03 June 2026
Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu): what they are, what they are for, and how to use them
anti-wrinkle
Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu): what they are, what they are for, and how to use them
Copper peptides (GHK-Cu) can support skin repair and improve fine wrinkles, but not all of them are created equal: I'...
Published: 03 June 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics