Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Allantoin in cosmetics: when it soothes and when it's barely noticeable
barrier
Allantoin in cosmetics: when it soothes and when it's barely noticeable
A discreet yet useful active ingredient for irritated, sensitive, or compromised skin.
Published: 19 May 2026
Succinic acid: when it makes sense for acne-prone skin
acne
Succinic acid: when it makes sense for acne-prone skin
A lesser-known acid that can fit into routines for occasional blemishes, excess sebum, and mild imperfections, with r...
Published: 19 May 2026
Benzoic acid in cosmetics: what it does and when it makes sense
anti-inflammatory
Benzoic acid in cosmetics: what it does and when it makes sense
A classic preservative with an antimicrobial function, useful in well-formulated products, but with nuances that are ...
Published: 19 May 2026
Carrot Oil: when it makes sense in your routine
antioxidant
Carrot Oil: when it makes sense in your routine
A vegetable oil interesting for its antioxidant and emollient profile, but with important nuances about what it can t...
Published: 19 May 2026
Evening primrose oil: when it makes sense for skin and hair
barrier
Evening primrose oil: when it makes sense for skin and hair
It's not an oil for everyone, but it can be suitable for dry, sensitive, or reactive skin and damaged ends.
Published: 19 May 2026
Lactic acid: when is it worth it in your routine
brightening
Lactic acid: when is it worth it in your routine
An AHA with a dual profile: it renews the skin's surface and, when well-formulated, also helps maintain hydration.
Published: 19 May 2026
Cornstarch (corn starch): benefits, uses, and combinations
soothing
Cornstarch (corn starch): benefits, uses, and combinations
Cornstarch acts primarily as an absorbent and soothing cosmetic. I'll explain when it can help, its limitations, and ...
Published: 17 May 2026
Vitamin E: how to use it in your facial routine
antioxidant
Vitamin E: how to use it in your facial routine
Vitamin E is a classic antioxidant in dermo-cosmetics: it helps protect the skin, strengthens the skin barrier, and w...
Published: 17 May 2026
Dimethicone for the skin: what it is, how it works, and when it's worth it
barrier
Dimethicone for the skin: what it is, how it works, and when it's worth it
Dimethicone is a cosmetic silicone widely used for its emollient and protective effects. I'll explain what it really ...
Published: 17 May 2026
Licorice Root Extract for Skin: What to Expect and What Not To
antioxidant
Licorice Root Extract for Skin: What to Expect and What Not To
Licorice root extract is a calming and antioxidant active ingredient that is very useful for sensitive or blemished s...
Published: 17 May 2026
Serenoa serrulata extract: real functions and how to apply it
sebum-regulating
Serenoa serrulata extract: real functions and how to apply it
We analyze what Serenoa serrulata extract is, what it is used for in oily or acne-prone skin, and what its real limit...
Published: 16 May 2026
Hydroxyacetophenone: what it is for and how to use it on your skin
anti-inflammatory
Hydroxyacetophenone: what it is for and how to use it on your skin
Hydroxyacetophenone is a functional ingredient with antioxidant, soothing, and antimicrobial properties that help imp...
Published: 13 May 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics