Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Topical Probiotics: When They Make Sense in Your Routine
anti-inflammatory
Topical Probiotics: When They Make Sense in Your Routine
They don't do the same thing as an oral probiotic, but they can help soothe and strengthen the barrier in certain ski...
Published: 03 June 2026
Allantoin in cosmetics: when it soothes and when it's barely noticeable
barrier
Allantoin in cosmetics: when it soothes and when it's barely noticeable
A discreet yet useful active ingredient for irritated, sensitive, or compromised skin.
Published: 03 June 2026
Adenosine: what it's for and how to use it on your skin
anti-wrinkle
Adenosine: what it's for and how to use it on your skin
Adenosine is a well-tolerated anti-wrinkle active that helps improve the appearance of fine lines and skin function, ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Citric acid in cosmetics: what it is and its effect on the skin
antioxidant
Citric acid in cosmetics: what it is and its effect on the skin
I'll explain what citric acid is in cosmetics, what it's really used for, how to use it without irritating the skin, ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Evening primrose oil: when it makes sense for skin and hair
barrier
Evening primrose oil: when it makes sense for skin and hair
It's not an oil for everyone, but it can be suitable for dry, sensitive, or reactive skin and damaged ends.
Published: 03 June 2026
Ferulic Acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it
antioxidant
Ferulic Acid: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it
Ferulic acid is an antioxidant that helps protect the skin from oxidative damage, enhances other active ingredients, ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Chamomile extract in cosmetics: when it's worth it
anti-inflammatory
Chamomile extract in cosmetics: when it's worth it
A classic botanical ingredient that can help calm skin, but it's important to understand what it does and doesn't do.
Published: 03 June 2026
What is azeloglycine and how can it help your skin
brightening
What is azeloglycine and how can it help your skin
Azeloglycine is a gentler, well-tolerated derivative of azelaic acid. I'll tell you what it's used for, what to combi...
Published: 03 June 2026
Vitamin K in cosmetics: when it makes sense and when it doesn't
renewing
Vitamin K in cosmetics: when it makes sense and when it doesn't
It is not one of the most well-known assets, but in certain contexts, it can make sense. I'll explain where it fits i...
Published: 03 June 2026
Mango Butter: When it provides comfort and when it falls short
emollient
Mango Butter: When it provides comfort and when it falls short
A very pleasant vegetable butter for dry or sensitized skin, but with important nuances if you're looking to treat ac...
Published: 03 June 2026
Gluconolactone in cosmetics: gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin
antioxidant
Gluconolactone in cosmetics: gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin
Gluconolactone is a gentle, hydrating, and antioxidant PHA that exfoliates with less irritation than other acids. I'l...
Published: 03 June 2026
Rosemary extract in cosmetics: benefits and ideal applications
antimicrobial
Rosemary extract in cosmetics: benefits and ideal applications
Not all botanicals are soothing. Rosemary extract can provide antioxidant and astringent action, but it's important t...
Published: 03 June 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics