Ingredients

A pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic actives. Every ingredient explained with scientific evidence: what it does, how to use it and what to combine it with.

Licorice Root Extract for Skin: What to Expect and What Not To
antioxidant
Licorice Root Extract for Skin: What to Expect and What Not To
Licorice root extract is a calming and antioxidant active ingredient that is very useful for sensitive or blemished s...
Published: 03 June 2026
DMAE in cosmetics: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it correctly
anti-wrinkle
DMAE in cosmetics: what it is, what it's for, and how to use it correctly
DMAE bitartrate can provide firmness and antioxidant effects, but the evidence is limited. I'll explain what the scie...
Published: 03 June 2026
Castor oil in cosmetics: everything you need to know
barrier
Castor oil in cosmetics: everything you need to know
Castor oil in cosmetics: what it can really do for your skin and hair, how to use it correctly, and its limitations a...
Published: 03 June 2026
What is organic silicon and how can it help your skin
barrier
What is organic silicon and how can it help your skin
I'll explain what organic silicon is, what it's used for in cosmetics, what to combine it with, and what results you ...
Published: 03 June 2026
Menthol in cosmetics: freshness, relief, and its limitations
anti-inflammatory
Menthol in cosmetics: freshness, relief, and its limitations
Menthol provides an immediate cooling and relieving sensation, but it's not always suitable for sensitive or reactive...
Published: 03 June 2026
Sulfur in cosmetics: when it makes sense and when it doesn't
acne
Sulfur in cosmetics: when it makes sense and when it doesn't
It's not an ingredient for everyone, but for oily skin with occasional breakouts, it can make sense if the formula is...
Published: 03 June 2026
Kaolin for oily skin: when it fits and how to use it
exfoliant
Kaolin for oily skin: when it fits and how to use it
A classic clay for oily or combination skin: useful for absorbing sebum and decongesting, with realistic and no-exagg...
Published: 03 June 2026
Olive oil on the skin: real benefits and when not to use it
emollient
Olive oil on the skin: real benefits and when not to use it
Olive oil acts as an emollient and moisturizer, but it's not suitable for all skin types. I'll tell you how to use it...
Published: 03 June 2026
Vegetable squalane: light emollience and skin barrier support
barrier
Vegetable squalane: light emollience and skin barrier support
A skin-native lipid that helps to soften, reduce water loss, and improve skin comfort without a dense feel.
Published: 03 June 2026
Oat extract on sensitive skin: when it truly brings calm
antioxidant
Oat extract on sensitive skin: when it truly brings calm
A useful aid for sensitive, dry or reactive skin when the formula is well-planned and not expected to deliver more re...
Published: 03 June 2026
Beta-Glucans: When They Make Sense in a Sensitive Routine
barrier
Beta-Glucans: When They Make Sense in a Sensitive Routine
They're not the most striking ingredient, but they can be a great fit for sensitive, irritated, or irritation-prone s...
Published: 03 June 2026
What is zinc PCA for? A pharmacist explains it to you
antimicrobial
What is zinc PCA for? A pharmacist explains it to you
Zinc PCA helps control excess sebum and can support acne-prone skin. I'll tell you what the evidence says, how to use...
Published: 03 June 2026

What are cosmetic active ingredients

Cosmetic active ingredients are the components responsible for making a product do what it promises. Unlike excipients (which provide texture, preservation or fragrance), actives are the ones that produce a real, measurable effect on the skin: stimulating collagen, inhibiting melanin, strengthening the skin barrier or accelerating cell renewal.

The problem is that most brands do not explain which actives they use, at what concentration or why. This pharmacist-led guide to cosmetic ingredients was created to change that: each article analyses an active ingredient with the available scientific evidence, without exaggeration or empty promises.

How to use this ingredient guide

Each article in this guide includes a summary card with the INCI name, effective concentration, potency, recommended skin type, routine step and compatibility with other actives. You will also find information on use during pregnancy and verifiable scientific references.

All content is written and reviewed by a licensed pharmacist with over 20 years of experience. This is not a standard cosmetic ingredient list — it is a professional guide designed to help you make informed decisions about your skincare.

Arancha Grediaga
Author and reviewer
Pharmacist · Dermocosmetics Expert · COFA License #6497
+20 years of community pharmacy experience · Technical Lead at EVUE Cosmetics